We had the pleasure of working with Jacques “KAJ” Manga, a distinguished photographer hailing from the vibrant city of Dakar, Senegal. Known for capturing the essence of everyday Senegalese culture through his lens, KAJ’s work offers a unique perspective that bridges tradition and modernity. His humble and kind nature is evident both in person and in his evocative portraits, which reveal the soul and stories of his subjects.
Recently, KAJ lent his creative talents to Mastoor's latest collection, "Sweetening the Fast," a project that beautifully intertwines fashion and spirituality in the context of Ramadan. In this in-depth interview, we explore KAJ's insights on photography, cultural identity, and the intersections of fashion and religion. Join us as we delve into the inspirations and experiences that shape his artistry, and discover how his work continues to illuminate the rich world of Senegalese life.
Balance between modesty and modernity
How do you navigate between contemporary fashion trends and Senegalese traditional values of modesty in your photographs? Are there specific design or aesthetic elements that you prioritize to honor this balance?
Navigating between contemporary fashion and the traditional values of modesty in Senegal is a balancing act that requires sensitivity and creativity. My goal is to show that modernity and modesty are not opposites but can coexist harmoniously within a strong and elegant aesthetic. I also enjoy exploring materials like bazin, indigo, or bogolan, which bring visual richness and cultural depth without compromising modesty. Accessories play a key role in my compositions, traditional gold or pearl jewelry, or even artisanal bags and shoes allow me to add a modern touch while honoring the cultural heritage. This creates a visual language that speaks to both young generations and international fashion enthusiasts. My aim is to show that Senegalese fashion evolves without losing its essence, and that modesty can be an aesthetic strength rather than a constraint. Through my photographs, I want to open a dialogue between past and future, showing that Senegalese elegance can adapt to global trends while remaining deeply rooted in its cultural identity.
Cultural heritage in visual storytelling
Senegalese heritage is rich in textiles, patterns, and symbolism. How do you intentionally weave these elements into your work to ensure they resonate both locally and globally without feeling tokenized?
KAJ:
I try to tell stories that illustrate local values and traditions, focusing on emotions and human experiences. This creates an emotional bond for me that goes beyond the visual. I create visuals that capture the essence of textiles and patterns through color, texture, and composition.
The influence of Ramadan on creativity
How does observing Ramadan influence your creative process? Are there themes of reflection, community, or spirituality that emerge in your work during this period?
KAJ
Yes, Ramadan can have a profound impact on the creative process... The month of Ramadan is often seen as a time for personal reflection. This period of introspection can prompt exploring themes such as faith, identity, and resilience, which can enrich creative content. Spirituality is at the heart of Ramadan, and this connection can inspire artistic works that deal with the quest for meaning, gratitude, and inner peace. The sacred month imposes a daily structure, with moments dedicated to prayer, meditation, and relaxation, which can foster a conducive environment for creativity.
Religion as a creative framework
Senegal's predominantly Muslim identity often blends traditions and cultural practices. How does this unique synergy influence your approach to capturing fashion, especially in projects aimed at challenging stereotypes about Islamic aesthetics?
KAJ
Senegal's predominantly Muslim identity, which mixes traditions and cultural practices, deeply influences my approach to fashion. This synergy creates a rich framework where religious and cultural elements meet, and it pushes me to explore the beauty of this fusion through my photography. In my projects, I strive to show that Islamic aesthetics are not monolithic, but rather dynamic and diverse. By capturing garments that respect the values of modesty while incorporating contemporary elements and traditional patterns, I aim to challenge the usual stereotypes associated with Islamic fashion. Focusing on fashion can demonstrate how clothing can be a form of personal and cultural expression.
Challenges of preserving culture
In an increasingly globalized sector, what challenges do you face in preserving Senegalese cultural authenticity while attracting an international audience?
KAJ
It's important to find innovative ways to value Senegalese traditions and arts without falling into stereotypes or inauthentic representations. This includes art, music, dance, and gastronomy. Funding for cultural preservation projects can be limited. It's important to seek partnerships with international organizations and NGOs to support cultural initiatives. Encouraging dialogue between different cultures can help enrich mutual understanding and strengthen local cultural identity while being open to international exchanges. By proactively addressing these challenges, Senegal can not only preserve its
Fashion as a defense of culture
Do you consider your work as a form of defense of Senegalese values, such as modesty or community identity? How do you use fashion photography to spark a dialogue about tradition in a modern context?
KAJ
Fashion can illustrate Senegalese values such as modesty and community identity by highlighting traditional clothing or modern styles that incorporate cultural elements. This allows showing that fashion can be both contemporary and respectful of traditions. Fashion photography allows telling stories. By capturing models in traditional outfits in modern contexts, it is possible to create a dialogue about cultural heritage, their meaning, and their place in the current world. Collaborating with local designers and craftsmen allows me not only to promote their work but also to introduce Senegalese fashion to an international audience. My photography becomes a tool to expose the beauty and authenticity of these creations.
Ultimately, my fashion photography becomes a tool for awareness and dialogue, showing that tradition is not static but can be reinvented with respect and audacity.
Collaborations and partnerships with craftsmen
Senegal has a dynamic artisan community. How do you collaborate with local artisans or designers to ensure that their traditions are respectfully highlighted in your projects?
KAJ
In my photographic projects, I place great importance on collaborating with these local artisans and designers, as they are the true guardians of the country's cultural and clothing traditions. Before any photo session, I discuss with the creators to understand the story and the symbolism behind each piece – whether it's a hand-dyed fabric, a filigree silver jewelry, or a leather accessory crafted using ancestral techniques. These discussions allow me to integrate these elements into my images in a way that honors their heritage and avoids any superficial appropriation. I also favor staging that places these creations in their original context, by working with authentic settings or involving the artisans themselves in the creative process. By incorporating these collaborations into my projects, my goal is to create images that celebrate not only the aesthetics of Senegalese fashion but also its soul and roots, while raising awareness among the younger generations about the importance of preserving this exceptional heritage.
Personal Rituals During Ramadan
Beyond creative work, are there any personal rituals or practices during Ramadan that inspire or rejuvenate your artistic vision? How do these moments of reflection
KAJ
Regular prayer and moments of meditation allow for refocusing and deepening one’s spiritual connection. These moments of calm can lead to reflections on themes of light, serenity, and community, resulting in photographs that capture the essence of these moments. During Ramadan, there can be a time for solitude to walk and reflect, often at dawn before the start of the fast. These moments can center one's attention on the beauty of the natural world, giving rise to contemplative images that convey a sense of peace.
Ultimately, this period offers me a precious pause to re-evaluate my artistic vision and refocus on what really matters: telling meaningful and authentic visual stories.
Managing Cultural Tensions
Have you ever encountered situations where global fashion trends clash with local religious or cultural sensitivities? How do you address these tensions in your work?
KAJ
Yes, I have sometimes faced tensions between global fashion trends and local cultural or religious sensitivities. In Senegal, where traditions and religion hold a central place, some aesthetics or stylistic choices may be perceived as inappropriate or provocative. For example, the use of very tight or revealing clothing can elicit mixed reactions, especially in public spaces.
In my photography work, I always try to respect these sensitivities while highlighting artistic expression and the evolution of Senegalese fashion. To do this, I engage in dialogue with designers, models, and communities to find a balance between modernity and respect for traditions. Sometimes, this involves staging that values modesty while remaining elegant and bold, or exploring alternative dress codes inspired by local styles.
My goal is to open conversations rather than provoke conflicts, showing that fashion can be a space for innovation while honoring cultural heritage. By telling visual stories that resonate with the Senegalese youth, I want to show them that it's possible to be both rooted in their origins and oriented towards the world.
Heritage and Future Aspirations
In the future, what changes do you hope to see in the way Senegalese heritage is represented in global fashion? How do you see your photography contributing to this evolution, especially for younger generations?
KAJ
In the future, I hope to see a more authentic and diversified representation of Senegalese heritage in global fashion. It would be interesting to see designers drawing inspiration not only from traditional patterns but also from Senegalese history and culture in a modern and innovative way. This could help break stereotypes and value the richness of our heritage.
As for my photography, I believe it can play a key role in this evolution. By capturing images that highlight the beauty and diversity of Senegalese fashion, I can help raise public awareness about our traditions. Moreover, by working with young designers and exposing them to a wider audience, I can encourage them to express themselves through their art while staying rooted in their culture.
It is essential to pass on this richness to younger generations so they can own it and continue to enrich it. I hope my approach will help inspire cultural pride and encourage a global dialogue on fashion and identity.
